Khusro Bagh Allahabad – A Lesser-Known Chapter of Mughal History
A few months back, I had visited Khusro Bagh in Prayagraj (erstwhile Allahabad), a sprawling garden spread over forty acres. Little did I know then that I was visiting a lesser-known chapter from the history of the Mughal Dynasty, a dynasty whose story I know revolves around the triumvirate of Delhi, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri.
Khusro Bagh (Khusro Garden) gets its name from Khusro Mirza, Emperor Jahangir’s son. Besides a few other mausoleums, the garden houses Khusro Mirza’s tomb.
About Khusro Mirza
Akbar had eyes on Khusro Mirza, Jahangir’s charismatic son, as his successor. But destiny had other plans. When Akbar was on his deathbed, Jahangir entered his bed-chamber. Upon laying his eyes on Jahangir, Akbar handed over the royal turban and robe to him.
As soon as Jahangir became the emperor, he placed Khusro Mirza under house arrest. Khusro escaped and tried to mount a siege, but his attempt was pre-empted and foiled by Jahangir. His brother Khurram, who later ascended the Mughal throne as Shahjahan, killed Khusro in captivity.
Tombs in Khusro Bagh
The first tomb built in Khusro Bagh was of Shah Begum (Man Bai), Jahangir’s Hindu wife, and mother of Khusro Mirza. Built in 1607, the tomb is in the centre of the garden, with four prominent walkways emanating from it. Since she was a Hindu, they have modelled the tomb on the Panch Mahal in Fatehpur Sikri, which does not resemble most Islamic tombs.
The second tomb (1622 CE) houses the mortal remains of Khusro Mirza. Mughals brought his body from Burhanpur to Allahabad and erected an opulent tomb as his final resting place next to his mother’s.
The third mausoleum is Nithar Begum’s tomb, Khusro Mirza’s sister. She wanted to be buried next to her mother and brother.
The fourth structure, popular as Bibi Tambolan’s tomb, does not have any sign of a tomb and is just an empty chamber.
Khusro Bagh after Mughals
During the 1857 CE mutiny, Maulvi Liaqat Khan used the garden as the headquarters of the Indian troops stationed in Allahabad. The British were quick to quash the mutiny.
Ever since, the garden is now a popular playground for children, a haven for walkers and joggers, and a shaded place for people to chill during the harsh summers of Prayagraj.
When in Allahabad, plan a visit to Khusro Bagh if Mughal history interests you. It throws light on a bloody chapter of a dynasty known for its forts and palaces, serene mausoleums, and the monument of love, the Taj Mahal.
📷 PHOTOGRAPHER’S FIELD NOTES — KHUSRO BAGH
Best time to visit: October to March. The garden is shaded by mature trees which soften harsh light, but winter mornings offer the cleanest atmosphere. Avoid April to June — Prayagraj summers are punishing and the garden offers limited relief beyond the tree canopy.
Best light: The garden is enclosed and tree-lined — direct golden hour light is limited. Overcast winter mornings actually work well here, softening shadows on the sandstone tomb facades. Shah Begum’s tomb faces east — early morning light hits the facade directly. Arrive before 9 AM for the best window.
What to photograph: Shah Begum’s tomb from the end of any of the four converging walkways — the symmetry is already framed for you. Khusro Mirza’s tomb rewards a low angle to capture the dome cluster against the sky. The long central pathway with its manicured hedges is a natural leading-line shot — best with a person walking away from camera for scale. The street art mural at the entrance is an unexpected contrast against the sandstone and greenery — worth a frame before you enter.
What most visitors miss: The four tombs tell a single connected story — most casual visitors walk through without realising the family relationships between them. Spend time reading the structures in sequence: Shah Begum (mother), Khusro Mirza (son), Nithar Begum (daughter), Bibi Tambolan (the mysterious empty chamber). The narrative arc makes the photography more intentional.
What to bring: The 24-70mm is the right lens for this garden — the enclosed tree-lined setting and tomb facades reward a mid-range perspective rather than ultra-wide. Use the 70-200mm for sandstone detail and inlay work on Khusro Mirza’s tomb. The TS-E 17mm earns its place on Shah Begum’s multi-storeyed facade — perspective correction keeps the tiers parallel without distortion. No tripod restrictions reported, but confirm on arrival.
Getting there: Khusro Bagh is in the heart of Prayagraj city, about 1 km from Prayagraj Junction railway station — walkable or a short auto-rickshaw ride. Prayagraj Junction is well connected to Delhi (2 hrs by Shatabdi), Agra, Varanasi, and Lucknow. Entry is free.
Combine with: Triveni Sangam — the sacred confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati — is 7 km away and a completely different visual register. Allahabad Fort (closed to most visitors but impressive from outside) is adjacent to the Sangam. Together these make a logical half-day Prayagraj circuit.
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