Our Planet’s Landmarks Series #17

Kumbh Mela India – World’s Largest Gathering

Holy dip on Mauni Amavasya - Kumbh Mela India - World's Largest Gathering - Travelure ©
Holy dip on Mauni Amavasya

Kumbh finds its origin in a legend of a war between gods and demons. They fought over the possession of the elixir of immortality. Legend says the drops of elixir fell out of Kumbh (sacred pitcher) at four places. Prayag, Ujjain, Nasik, and Haridwar. Today, these cities host Kumbh.

Devotees taking a holy dip at Triveni Sangam during Kumbh
Devotees taking a holy dip at Triveni Sangam during Kumbh

At every location, we have Kumbh every 12 years. Exceptions are Prayag and Haridwar. Here, between two Kumbhs, an Ardh Kumbh (Half Kumbh) is also celebrated. Of all locations, topmost in the pecking order is Prayag. Because of Triveni Sangam. The confluence of three rivers. Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati.

Kumbh goes digital - a devotee beaming his holy dip live
Kumbh goes digital – a devotee beaming his holy dip live

The belief is a holy dip during Kumbh frees one from a cycle of rebirth. The elixir, and the alignment of stars, together deliver this.

In 2017, UNESCO inscribed Kumbh on their list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Kumbh: My Experience

Kumbh conjures up an image of an ocean of humanity. Rightly so as an estimated 150 million people will visit Prayag for 2019 Ardh Kumbh (Dates: 15th January to 4th March 2019). That is one in every nine Indians. Such an invasion of any city calls for a large scale handling and organisation.

Times Passion Trail participants having a holy dip at Kumbh
Times Passion Trail participants having a holy dip at Kumbh

I visited Kumbh twice this year. As Photography Experience Architect of Times Passion Trail. And on an invite to Travel Writers Kumbh Conclave (a Worldwide Media/Lonely Planet event).

UP Chief Minister, Yogi Adityanath flagged the trail off from Lucknow. At the flag off, he shared UP government had doubled the area for Kumbh Mela. From 32 hectares in the previous Kumbh to 64 hectares. He also mentioned 125,000 toilets had been set up for devotees.

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Previous day build-up for Mauni Amavasya - shot from helicopter - Kumbh Mela India - World's Largest Gathering - Travelure ©
Previous day build-up for Mauni Amavasya – shot from helicopter

Saying Vs. Seeing

Those were figures. During the Travel Writers Kumbh Conclave, I took a helicopter ride to shoot the festival. That is when I comprehended its true size. There is a huge difference between ‘saying’ and ‘seeing’. The birdseye view made me go OMG!

Boats anchored near sandbars at Triveni Sangam - shot from helicopter. Devotees come in these boats for holy dip. - Kumbh Mela India - World's Largest Gathering - Travelure ©
Boats anchored near sandbars at Triveni Sangam – shot from helicopter. Devotees come in these boats for holy dip.

The tent city was a sprawling expanse of gabled pyramids. All around, rows of colourful mobile toilets dotted the space.

Near the Sangam, the akharas were buzzing with activity. The multitude thronged the Ghats. Boats carrying devotees flecked the Triveni Sangam. The whole scene boggled my mind. So many people in one place!

Naga sadhu in a complex yoga pose at Kumbh Mela India - World's Largest Gathering
Naga sadhu in a complex yoga pose at Kumbh

In my Times Passion Trail visit, the mahasnan (holy dip) of Paush Poornima (Full Moon night) at dawn was surreal. All around, there was morning mist. Devotees were chanting as they stood on sandbars for holy dips. And, peace prevailed!

Morning mist creates a surreal setting for the holy dip at Kumbh
Morning mist creates a surreal setting for the holy dip at Kumbh

But during the second visit, I was there for Mauni Amavasya (silent new moon night). This is considered the holiest day for a dip. I took the helicopter ride a day before. I could see the build-up for the next day was staggering. More than double the size of my earlier visit. To give some perspective, the number of devotees who took holy dip on Paush Poornima was 22.5 million. This number had swollen to over 50 million on Mauni Amavasya!

Multitude at Kumbh for a holy dip - shot from helicopter
Multitude at Kumbh for a holy dip – shot from helicopter

As the largest gathering of humanity, Kumbh justifies its place on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. And without doubt, it is one of our planet’s landmarks.

Click HERE to check out Kumbh UNESCO Listing

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